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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Feb. 01 2012,20:09 |
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I picked up a cheap fiberglass rod on trade me... a bit heavier than I was looking for, an 8'6" 6 weight Trent. It throws a 5 weight line fine but it is a bit rough! I'm looking at a project of stripping it back down and rebuilding it maybe? Does anyone have a good link on how to or any advise? If this goes well I think I will be looking to build a few more
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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| Post Number: 2
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Mattyd 

Group: Members
Posts: 513
Joined: Oct. 2009
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Posted on: Feb. 01 2012,20:23 |
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Depending on how old the wraps are Mike, I found the easiest was was to pick some of the expoxy off with a xacto knife and by pulling at the exposed thread it would unwind taking the bulk of expoxy with it, then it's just a matter of scubbing off the ridges with a pot scrubber - you know the scott pad green thingy's - can't remember the name sorry. Be careful not to cut into the blank. The cork if you are going to redo will have to be sacreficed, but the reel seat should 'pop' off if you heat it up and give it a tug. I just submerged my ones in hot/boiled water for a couple of minutes, usually gets them moving. As long as you don't damage the blank it's pretty easy really, good luck and photo's please
-------------- Before we had Glass, we had Grass - Fish Bamboo
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| Post Number: 3
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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Feb. 01 2012,20:42 |
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Thanks Matty, sounds good, the epoxy looks fairly new? may have been redone recently but not too neatly... might just be a bit of fun. If I get around to it, I will post up some pics!
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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| Post Number: 4
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iank 

Group: Members
Posts: 79
Joined: Apr. 2008
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Posted on: Feb. 01 2012,21:39 |
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Mike, I use sandpaper with a hard backing for smoothing out imperfections in old rods ( and in new rods) . I have it is several grades between 600 and 1500. Place the sandpaper face down on a board or flat surface and spray , or spread a contact glue on the back. You then get some wooden popsical sticks ( from $2 shop or payless plastics , $2 for about 150) and glue them close together to the back of the sheet. Then get a knife and cut the sandpaper between the sticks. You end up with a bundle of hard backed sand paper strips which are very usefull in delicately smoothing surfaces, removing glue etc. I even cut some of the strips down the middle so the strip is about 8mil wide , very usefull at times.
For restoring a battered and dirty cork handle try warm water and some liquid soap. just dampen the handle and then rub the liquid soap in , wash off and try again. The cork can come up very nicely. If you have a hole or two in the cork make a mix of ground up cork and white glue and fill the holes . once the glue has hardened sand the surface even. cheers Ian
-------------- iank
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| Post Number: 5
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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Feb. 01 2012,21:58 |
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Thanks Ian, the blank looks good... mostly the wraps and the reel seat is a cheap plastic down locking... I figure if I strip the guides off to re-wrap, I may as well replace the reel seat too... it's probably easier to just start from scratch with a new build
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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| Post Number: 6
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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Mar. 26 2012,20:00 |
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Well I started to build a winding jig for rod building... I know there are easier and probably cheaper ways to start but I enjoy building stuff so this is all part of my project I got some american white oak from a supplier at work and dressed it up at my brother inlays a couple of weeks back. Today I cut it up, slotted the base and sanded it up... this gives the general idea...
 I saw a couple of rigs online and am fashioning it from them but kind of making things up as I go along...
 Once I have used it a while, I may make some adjustments??? I have glued some felt into the vee's and will have a look at a thread holder too....
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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| Post Number: 7
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HerkDrvr 

Group: Members
Posts: 478
Joined: Nov. 2005
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Posted on: Mar. 27 2012,00:02 |
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I really like your rod wrapper!! That white oak looks great. I see that your uprights adjust...how are they secured, or do they just rest in the slot? When I get back to the states, I'll post pics of the wrapper I picked up second hand. It's very similar to yours only it uses rollers instead that adjust and uses springs to keep them in place. The guy bought it from got it from a company from Pennsylvania and then never used it, all I did was stain it.
I'm looking forward to see the rods that come off of your wrapper!
Cheers, JD
-------------- "When My Ship Comes In, I'll Probably Be At The Airport"
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| Post Number: 8
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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Mar. 27 2012,08:01 |
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I'm thinking a couple of dowel pegs to guide it in the slot but plan to use a couple of bolts and wing nuts to lock them off. I want them adjustable to set up but not concerned about once started a rod...
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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| Post Number: 9
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HerkDrvr 

Group: Members
Posts: 478
Joined: Nov. 2005
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Posted on: Apr. 01 2012,11:35 |
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Hi Mike...as promised here is a picture of the wrapper I picked up used. Sorry for the poor quality picture. I really like the thread tension device. I'm still trying to get the hang of it though...That is my first attempt at a wrap on a little 4 wt I've started for my son before heading overseas...I'm back for awhile so I need to get going and finish it. The caddis hatch is getting close.
Cheers, JD
-------------- "When My Ship Comes In, I'll Probably Be At The Airport"
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| Post Number: 10
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Mike Wilkinson 

Group: Members
Posts: 1293
Joined: Jul. 2005
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Posted on: Apr. 01 2012,15:13 |
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Looks good JD. Been busy the last week at work with stock take so haven't done any more yet. Have been thinking of building a cheap blank first before I do the rebuild.
-------------- Wilki
Evolution of a flyfisher
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